Having helped install a 390 cast iron intake manifold on a friends ford wagon I could have used this then sifting through the hard to read and fuzzy pictures of the BBF intake. This is the same intake that is on 390, 427 and 428 engines. Please follow the Ford shop manuals instructions in using a ‘crane’ to lift the cast iron FE manifold. It’s pretty F’n heavy no joke. For all you will ever want an more for information on the FE intake check out DIYFORD, an excellent source of Ford information for that matter. To me the FE intake is just odd, same for the Heads, splitting the head and the intake looks odd and I’ll bet the source of many Ford oil leaks.
BTW that’s why I helped my friend fix his car, intake oil leak.
Big Block Ford 390, 427 and 428 (FE) Intake Bolt Torque Specifications
35 Ft/Lbs – Iron Heads
Do the torque in 2 steps, first just hand tight, second with the torque wrench.
IF you do have a spec from the manufacturer follow that. Make sure threads in the head are clean and in good
shape. Washers are also a good bet if you have a deluxe bolt kit…
Make sure you follow the sequence in a couple of steps, worry about this more on old and aluminum manifolds. Cast Iron is much more forgiving if you are unfortunate to have to use a boat anchor of an intake. Again the FE intake manifold if REALLY heavy, be careful while lifting it out of the car, lift with your knees or some such thing…
Some Common Intake Manifold Tips
If you have an old used manifold, before installing it, check for cracks, leaks and the threads in the thermostat housing (often a problem area) and the threads in the bolt for the distributor clamp. You don’t want to find out you have to toss in a Helicoil or other insert while it’s on the car. For the T-Stat housing and Distributor claps it’s nice to use studs if access permits. Test fit your manifold with gaskets (no sealer). Make sure it looks like it will align. Milling heads and decking blocks can make things not align properly and cause leaks.
Use good sealers, do not use silicon around intake ports, just the water ports. Some folks like to use the end seals, I typically toss them and use a bead of silicon on the front and rear seals of the manifold. Do it in the way you are most comfortable with. If tossing the end seals make sure things are totally clean an oil free. My preferences for gasket sealers on the race cars are Hylomar for intake ports and a light coat of High temp RTV sealer for the water jackets and end seals.
