Ford Expedition Front Brakes - Installing Stuff
Time to get it all back together. The trick here is to get all the crazy spring clips back on without losing an eye or having the spring shoot to Mars. Remember to keep the grease off of the pads and rotor while you handle the parts. If you do, don't worry get a nice clean rag and some carb/brake clean and wipe the parts clean. Before going on a test drive MAKE SURE ALL THE PARTS ARE BACK IN AND TORQUED PROPERLY! A helpful second set of eyes can be your friend.
Pad Installed In Caliper
After the pad snaps in the caliper it should look like this. Look right in the middle and you can clearly see the bottom side of the small attaching point where the WTF spring connect to the back of the pad. Also you cand see the T45 slide bolts in the side of the caliper.
Re-installing the Caliper
Now time to re-install the caliper onto the bracket. Remember you must have fully compressed the pistons into the caliper or it will NOT fit over the rotor. Also if the rotor is not flush against the hub you will have problems. First push both of the bolts on the calipers in a bit so they do not interfere when it slid over the rotor. Make sure you brake hose is NOT kinked or twisted oddly when you put it into position. You may have to rock it a bit to get it over the rotor, generally the pads are cut back on the edges that make it easier to slip over the rotor. Once over the rotor start trying to align up the holes in the caliper to mate to the bracket. Tighten them up and torque them to 25 FT/LBS (for 2003 T45 Expedition). You are getting close!
Installing the Clip
This is really the hardest part of the installation, you need to start with the spring clip in the bottom hole and positioned as shown. The holes have a small ridge in them that helps hold the clip in, but it will do it's best to slip out.
This is how I started to install it as Step 1
Installing the Clip - Step 3
This is the hard part, without popping the other parts of the clip out you need to move the last part onto the caliper bracket. You will do this a couple of times until you get the hang of it, but it will go. If you find another way more power to ya'. Once it on, their is only the WTF spring to install and that is easy compaired to this.
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Installed!
This is what the clip should look like on the top and bottom. The part that goes into the hole should be flush and the part on the top should be riding on the top of the caliper bracket as shown.
Installing the Clip - Step 2
Now force the top part of the clip into the hole. You will have to force it in since the top part of the clip is wedging on the bracket and not yet snapped over the top of the caliper bracket.
On the the hard part...
The WTF Clip (Yes What The F#{% is it)
This clip is installed through the TOP of the caliper. Remember that little tab with a hole on the back of the pad, yes? Well this needs to be installed with one end in that and the other what seems like a slot on the inside of the caliper. The position of the clip is show in the picture as the direction it installed. You install the pad end first then with a needle nose pliers push the back end into the caliper. It will spring into place. I have seen videos and others that do not put this clip in, but it's there for a reason so back it goes.
The WTF Clip - Push It In!
Once you get the clip into the hole on the bracket on the back of the pad just use a needle nose to push it into the caliper, it just snaps in as far as I can tell.
Inspect and Wrap Up
Once the springs are back in, things are properly torqued, put the caps back on and do a general inspection of the work and to see if you have any extra parts. Also check for any grease on the front or back of the rotor that you greasy hands may have deposited. It's a good time to go into the car and slowly mash the brakes a couple of times to get things tight. If all looks good time to put the wheel back on. Place all the lugs back on and tighten them up lightly to center the rim and once all are snug torque to 145Ft/Lbs for the 21mm lugs (if 19mm then 125). Do the torque of the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern. I do it in two stages one at 75Ft/Lbs then one at 145 just to make sure I don't have to hear anyone tell me your rotors may be warped because you didn't torque them correctly.
It also helps to have a second set of eyes inspect your work...
If I have forgotten anyting or got something wrong or you have a good tip shoot me a message by using the contact page.
